The
Monastery of our Saviour was founded in the middle of the fourteenth century by
the princes of Suzdal and Nizhniy Novgorod. It was excellently situated on the
high left bank of the Kamenka, to the north from city. An account of the life
of the Monastery 's first abbot Yevfimiy says, that he built a stone Church there
at this very early stage. It's author, a monk by the name of Grigoriy lived
in the sixteenth century, when the Monastery had several new stone Churches.
In
the beginning of 16-th century the Abbot Yevfimiy, the Monastery 's founder, was
glorified by the Orthodox Church. By the fifteenth century the Monastery possessed
numerous lands, villages and hamlets in various parts of Central Russia, which
had been endowed by princes and rich boyars. The Monastery built a large number
of new stone buildings in the first half of the sixteenth century.
At the
beginning of the seventeenth century the Polish invaders used it as a stronghold
and surrounded it with a wooden stockade. This was replaced by new wooden fortifications
with nine towers in 1660, and some twenty years later the present stone walls
were built with twenty towers and a total perimeter of 1,312 yards. Since the
Monastery possessed 10,300 serfs at this time the construction of such a huge
stronghold was well within its means.
Standing on the high left bank of the
Kamenka its red walls and towers can be seen from a long way off. There is a mighty
twelve-sided tower on the Southwest corner and the domes of the Monastery Churches
are visible behind the walls. The whole magnificent panorama has a truly epic
quality about it and the Monastery ensemble fits in perfectly with the surrounding
countryside. Although the walls and towers create an impression of tremendous
strength there is nothing gloomy, or threatening about them. On the contrary they
seem to radiate the poetic splendour so typical of Russian seventeenth-century
art. The unknown builder of this Monastery town combined the skills of a fortification
expert and pure architect rivalling the famous sixteenth-century civic architect
Feodor Kon.
The
defensive character of the Monastery is immediately apparent even from a general
view of the ensemble. It can be seen in the row of loopholes running along the
fortified parapet. The design of the walls and towers varies according to their
location. By the steep banks of the river where assault would have been difficult
the walls are lower and the towers more squat, whereas on the vulnerable south
side where the ground is flat they are much higher. At the same time the increased
dimensions of the walls and towers facing the town were also influenced by purely
artistic considerations. The south wall formed part of the Monastery 's main facade
and the architect expended much skill and ingenuity on it. This
applies particularly to the massive entrance tower. The majestic importance of
this huge square building, about 70 feet high, is accentuated by the low arched
entrances, which look as though they are resting on stubby posts and seem to be
weighed down by the massive tower. The tower occupies a commanding position in
the Monastery complex, and is one of its main buildings. It is placed at an angle
to the road and adjoining walls. The lower part up to the top of the adjoining
walls is extremely plain. Its surface is broken only by two icon niches, a number
of circular loopholes and the rusticated corners. The upper half of the tower
is very lavishly decorated however. First comes a row of slightly elongated niches.
This is followed by a band of loopholes framed with elaborate ogee-shaped surrounds.
Above these is a wide cornice of niches decorated with tiles and, higher still,
another row of loopholes topped by a decorative arcade band with closely spaced
small columns and pointed kokoshniks,
decorating the slits of the upper defensive platform. The decoration stands out
clearly against the red walls of the tower, which set off the white ornament particularly
well.
The tower with its pyramidal roof stands almost in the centre of the
southern facade. Its importance is emphasised by the polygonal corner towers,
which are decorated much more simply. They have round loopholes and only those
on the upper defensive platform are framed with ogee-shaped surrounds forming
a kind of decorative coronet. The impression of slender height which these towers
produce is emphasised by a barely perceptible tapering which makes them look higher
than they really are.
The towers on the east side of the Monastery along which
the road runs are more lavishly decorated than those on the west wall. Their corners
are adorned with broad pilaster strips which compress the red surfaces of the
walls and make the towers look more slender. The towers on the west side facing
the open countryside are the plainest of all. Their wide indented slits are completely
devoid of ornament. Thus we can see, that the adornments of the ensemble was concentrated
mainly on the side facing the town. The different shapes of the towers: round,
square, polygonal and their varying styles of decoration combined to form a very
picturesque, impressive ensemble.
The Monastery could be seen from far off,
dominating the town and its old architectural centre, the Kremlin. Built at a
time, when the heart of Russia was no longer threatened by foreign invaders it
was never actually used for defensive purposes.
If
we pass through the dark archway of the main entrance tower, we would faced with
another gateway in the lower tier of the Church of the Annunciation, whose oblong
bulk conceals the main buildings of the Monastery . There was probably a small
courtyard here, enclosed on two sides by inner walls and on the third by the south
front of the Holy Gates. On the right and left there is a good view of the fortified
walls from the inside, with their high arcade, supporting the covered parapet
of the defensive platform.
The exact date of the Annunciation Church is not
known. It is mentioned as being a stone Church in an inventory for 1628-1629,
but some of its features are similar to the early sixteenth-century bell-tower.
It consists of a square main body with a porch at the west end, and elongated
apses on the east side. The Church roof was altered later. Originally it had two
tent-shaped towers, rising above ogee-shaped zakomaras,
and linking the building with the tent-shaped roofs of the fortified towers.
The
adornments of the outer walls is rich and varied. Beneath the broad cornice with
a row of squat rounded balusters there are two symmetrically placed windows with
structured surrounds and an icon niche between them. The walls of the Church porch
are particularly effective. The porch has large windows with surrounds like deeply
recessed portals, which may be a copy of the portals in the thirteenth-century
Cathedral of the Nativity.
Facing the west wall of
the Church porch are another three large windows, each of which has a structured
ogee-shaped surround. The inner frame is shaped like two small arches with a pendant
in between them. This motif may have been inspired by the double and triple windows,
found in twelfth-century Vladimir and Suzdal architecture.
Beyond
this second pair of gates, one of which is now blocked up, lie the oldest buildings
in the Monastery. There are: the Cathedral of the Transfiguration in the centre,
the large bell-tower on the right, and the refectory Church of the Assumption
on the left.
These buildings mark, as it were, the second inner and main courtyard.
Beyond it were the monks' cells, many of which were built of stone as early
as the beginning of the seventeenth century. Behind them stretched vast areas
of land, used for domestic purposes.
The history of the main buildings is
somewhat unclear. Their exact dates are difficult to determine precisely. The
more recent additions are incorporated motifs from the old buildings.
This
applies to the bell-tower, which belongs to two different periods. The earliest
section is the nine-sided column of the original bell-tower, or, to be more precise,
the pillar-like Church, surmounted by a belfry
of the type, which we can see also in the Convent of the Intercession.
Evidently both these buildings belong to the same period - the first decade
of the sixteenth century.
Above the octagonal socle stood the tiny Church
of the Birth of John the Baptist. It may be connected with the birth of Ivan IV
in 1530, and could well have been built on funds provided by the Grand Prince.
The walls of the Church and bell-tower were disfigured by later repairs and
the addition of new windows, but its original adornments seems to have been plain
as it is today. The surfaces of the lower tier were embellished by the insertion
of pointed kokoshniks. The intertwined kokoshniks on the Northeast surface of
the socle are particularly interesting.
The narrow, slit-like embrasures of
the windows on the second tier, which contained the Church, alternate with broad
surrounds in the form of portals, like those which we can see in the gateway Church
of the Annunciation.
A third tier contained the bells. Possibly it was rebuilt
once. Above its broad flattened arches rose the tent-shaped roof.
This building
and the similar one in the Convent of the Intercession are of great interest to
scholars as predecessors of the famous tent-shaped Church of the Ascension in
the former village of Kolomenskoye, now in the bounds of Moscow.
In
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries another building was added to the bell-tower.
Its upper tier, consisted of an arcade with three arches on short faceted pillars.
The first arch was built in 1599 and the remaining two in 1691. This type of building
originated in early Pskov architecture and was later developed by Moscow
and Rostov builders in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The walls
were decorated in the same free, asymmetrical style, that we can observe in the
gateway Church of the Convent of the Intercession: the pilaster strips and the
horizontal bands of niches, kokoshniks, balusters and brickwork seem to have been
placed entirely at random. In between the bell-tower and the arcade there is a
clock tower with a tent-shaped spire. Interestingly enough it contains features
similar to those of the clock-tower in the Convent of the Intercession - the same
circular branch piece evidently intended for the clock and the same rosette beside
it. It is possible that the builders copied these details from the older building
in the Intercession Convent. The tent-shaped spire of the clock-tower was balanced
by two similar spires above the belfry. These spires corresponded to those on
the gateway Church, producing the characteristic interplay of architectural forms
that linked the separate buildings into a single whole.
This
unity is also found in the refectory Church of the Assumption, built in 1525,
almost directly opposite the bell-tower.
Its faceted apses face the Cathedral
courtyard, and are decorated with bands of ogee-shaped niches and kokoshniks,
which also include a row of narrow arched windows.
The square main body of
the Church rises above the central apse and is crowned by tiers of kokoshniks,
around the base of the short octagon, that carries the tent-shaped spire. The
side apses were originally surmounted by two smaller tent-shaped spires, which
probably had similar tiers of kokoshniks around their octagonal bases. This composition
was evidently copied in the bell-tower and gateway Church, with their tent-shaped
spires.
Later buildings, erected on the right and left of the east wall, obscure
most part of the Church. The main body of the refectory stretches back into the
monastery courtyard and cannot be seen from the central square. It consists of
a large hall once, decorated with frescoes, but now considerably changed by nineteenth-century
alterations, standing on a lower storey, used for domestic purposes. Its west
wall is particularly fine with a cornice of balusters, and pointed brick, that
stands out against the plain walls with their simple arched windows, arranged
symmetrically without any decoration.
The
bell-tower and the refectory provide, as it were, side wings for the huge five-domed
sixteenth-century Cathedral of the Transfiguration, decorated with a somewhat
plain decorative arcade band. In the seventeenth century its outer walls were
painted with frescoes. The main south and west walls seem to have been designed
originally to have paintings, because their second tiers were given broad windows,
placed in the decorative arcade band, instead of the usual narrow, slit windows.
The Southeast corner of the Cathedral is adjoined by a charming chapel, erected
earlier it, between 1507 and 1511. This tiny chapel without pillars, erected over
the grave of Abbot Yevfimiy, was the Monastery 's first stone building.
Its
square body may have been adjoined by a small Church porch on the west wall.
The
large Cathedral was built on to the chapel in the middle or late sixteenth century,
when the chapel was dedicated to Yevfimiy.
The same thing happened about this
time in Pereslavl-Zalessky, where a similar small Church built by Vasiliy
III over the grave of the local saint Nikita, became the chapel of a grandiose
Cathedral, built in 1564 in the Monastery of Saint Nicetas.
The small, pillarless
Churches of this type, which appeared in the trading and artisan settlements around
Moscow in the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries have a simple, homely
atmosphere.
The similarity between the exteriors of the Cathedral and the
chapel suggests that the latter was redecorated when the Cathedral was built.
In contrast to the bell-tower and refectory, which reflect the spirit of lively
innovation so typical of Russian sixteenth- and seventeenth-century art, the
cathedral conformed to earlier hallowed traditions like all sixteenth-century
large monasteries and kremlins. The overall result lacked the majesty and unity
of the twelfth-and thirteenth-century buildings. Here we find the traditional
pilaster strips, very skimpy in relation to the building's dimensions, the deeply
recessed portals with carved ornamental capitals, an over-refined decorative arcade
band, and the cherished five-domed roof, but they form a mere dead shell.
It
is interesting to compare the Cathedral with the west vestibule added in the seventeenth
century, which delights the eye with its lively interplay of rich and varied embellishment
and the interesting effects of light and shade on its walls.
The south narthex
was badly disfigured, when it was included in a new Church porch, surrounding
the Cathedral on three sides, and given a new north chapel in 1866.
The Cathedral's
interior with its four broadly planted large pillars and deeply recessed apses
is just as traditional as the exterior. The well-lit body of the Cathedral impresses
one with its size and cold dignity.
It remained without wall paintings for
a long time after it was built. Judging by the entries in the Monastery inventory
it must have had a very original appearance. The white walls were covered with
icons in glittering mounts of gold, silver and enamel and rich, silk-embroidered
shrouds - the gifts of wealthy pilgrims.
The frescoes date back to 1689, but
were renewed in 1865 and 1877 and have unfortunately not yet been cleaned and
restored. Even in their present condition they are of considerable interest because
the nineteenth-century renovators simply repainted them without altering them.
These early frescoes were the work of a team of painters under the direction of
two gifted masters, Guriy Nikitin and Sila Savin.
One is immediately
struck by the fact that the frescoes combine two different artistic styles. Some
of them are composed on a large majestic scale, whereas others are full of the
minute detail and complex composition characteristic of icon-painting. In some
cases the artists seem to have been unable to adjust their painting to the comparatively
small, low interior. Beneath the fresco of the Lord of Hosts on the dome, they
painted huge, elongated archangels on the narrow strips of wall between the windows.
The same tendency is strikingly illustrated by the excessively tall figures of
other archangels on the altar arch and the apostles on the vaulting arches. There
are also very large pictures of the twelve Church festivals on the vaults.
As
a whole, however, the frescoes are very impressive. There is a beautiful one on
the upper section of the central apse in praise of the Virgin Mary, showing her
sitting on a throne with Christ in her arms. The painting on the walls and pillars
consists of four comparatively narrow bands, the lower one depicting the acts
of the apostles and the remaining three showing scenes of Christ's life taken
from the Gospels and portrayed with an extraordinary wealth of detail. Each scene
is crowded with figures and almost merges into the next one. For the benefit of
the congregation the painters added lengthy descriptions. The paintings look like
a gaily coloured, patterned tapestry curling over the sides of the windows. The
artists' skill is apparent in the varied lines and colours of the robes on the
large figures in the sanctuary, for example, the archdeacons round the altar and
the Fathers of the Church in the central apse.
The original frescoes evidently
possessed a richness of colour and form, which has now been exaggerated and distorted
by the nineteenth-century painters. It is interesting that the lower tiers of
painting on the surfaces of the pillars facing the altar, show the founders of
the Romanov dynasty, the tsars Mikhail and Alexey, as saints
with haloes. Here also painted are: the biblical kings David and Solomon, Constantine
the Great, who has been named the "Thirteenth Apostle" in the Eastern Church,
his mother Saint Helena, and the Russian glorified princes Vladimir, Boris and
Gleb. We also can find Grand Prince Vsevolod III here.
This feature can be
traced back to the fresco painting in the great Moscow Cathedrals, for example,
the 1508 paintings in the Cathedral of the Annunciation.
In contrast to the
cold dignity of the interior of the Cathedral, one is struck by the cosy atmosphere
inside the Saint Yevfimiy's chapel. It is covered by a cylindrical vault, in the
centre of which is the dome drum with four narrow windows. The frescoes appear
to have been painted at the same time, as those of the Cathedral in 1689, and
were also renovated in the nineteenth century. There are figures of the apostles
on the apse and archangels on the arch, who are particularly conspicuous here
because of their size.
The frescoes on the other walls are devoted mainly
to the life of Saint Yevfimiy. One extremely interesting scene on the north wall
shows Yevfimiy supervising the building of the Monastery with a plan in his hands.
Architects did not actually start building from plans until the end of the seventeenth
century, the period of Russian Baroque. Evidence of this period can also be seen
in the buildings portrayed in the frescoes, which are full of ornamental motifs
found in Moscow architecture of that time. It should be remembered, however, that
very little trace of these motifs is found in seventeenth- and eighteenth-century
Suzdalian architecture. The painters clearly knew about them from Russian buildings
and West European prints, which suggests that they were not local artists.
In
1642 Prince Dimitri Pozharsky, who led the army, which finally
routed the Polish and Lithuanian invaders, was buried on
the east side of the Cathedral opposite the altar.