If
we going to the Southeast corner of the Kremlin we would
come to one of the finest specimens of eighteenth-century
Suzdal architecture, the Saint
Nicholas Church (1720-1739), which replaced a tent-shaped
wooden Church of the same name burnt down in 1719.
The new Church was restored in 1960 by Olga Guseva. There must
have been a Church of Saint Nicholas on this spot right from the early days because
the old town gates nearby leading to a bridge over the Kamenka were called the
Saint Nicholas Gates.
Saint
Nicholas was the patron saint of sailors and travellers which explains why
the Church here was dedicated to him. The Gates led to distant waterways and highways.
The Church of Saint Nicholas at the Galleys in Vladimir
was also situated not far from the jetty.
The present one in Suzdal is a very
fine building, combining seventeenth century forms with new features. It is cube-shaped
with beautiful portals, elegant window surrounds, and a wide cornice surmounted
by a row of small kokoshniks.
In the centre of the hip roof there is a slender, elongated dome drum decorated
with two rows arcade band. It is possible that the Church originally had five
domes.
The building is adjoined on its west side by a small vestibule-type
refectory linking it with the bell-tower. The latter is beautifully proportioned
and decorated. Its design is based on the old type of tent-shaped wooden Church
consisting of an octagon on a square base. The corners on top of the square base
are decorated with tiny tent-shaped pinnacles. The base of the octagon is decorated
with kokoshniks, repeating the motif above the cornice on the main body of the
Church. Above these is a row of square niches surmounted by another row of Baroque
octagonal niches and a broad cornice with a band of coloured tiles, which separated
the octagon from the belfry.
The latter is extremely lavishly decorated with rusticated pillars surmounted
by cornices, structured arches, and here again, a broad cornice with a row of
tiles. The higher up the more elaborate the decoration becomes. The corners on
top of the octagonal belfry repeat the motif on the corners of the square base
in the form of tiny Gothic-like pinnacles, crowned with crosses, which emphasise
the size and height of the tent-shaped spire.
The latter's concave form was
an innovation of the Suzdal builders. The traditional tiny slit windows were replaced
by round dormer windows.
Only right at the top of the spire were the windows
given tiny decorative surrounds enhancing the impression of height. The bell-tower
was crowned with a small helmet-shaped dome. The unknown architect of the Church
of Saint Nicholas was clearly a very gifted master with a keen sense of architectural
rhythm and the effective use of adornments. He was obviously in touch with the
new trends in architecture but felt more affinity with older Suzdalian styles.
It is quite likely that he was a native of Suzdal.
The
Church was an unheated one and formed a pair with the smaller heated Church of
the Nativity nearby built in 1775 with a nineteenth century Church porch. We can
see many other examples of paired Churches. The small, heated ones are usually
very simple and unassuming in design and often resemble a single-storey dwelling
or the square-shaped wooden Church like the one from Glotovo.
Basically they are stone replicas of the rectangular log structure that goes
to make up a simple peasant izba with the usual saddle-back roof. Here
we have an excellent example of the way that traditional domestic wooden architecture
continued to influence stone Churches even as late as the eighteenth century.
The combination of these simple heated Churches with the main Church emphasises
the latter's importance and grandeur and frequently groups of this kind form a
very picturesque ensemble.